“The Wilderness holds answers to the questions we have not yet learnt to ask”
– Anonymous
Were we saving the best national park of Uganda for the last or was it the sheer remoteness which kept dissuading us from planning a trip to Kidepo earlier ? Whatever might be the answer, I am glad we finally decided to head to the this remote gem of a place tucked in the North Eastern corner of Uganda.
The valley surrounded by low lying peaks and vast undulating savannah plains make a picturesque setting for a quiet yet intriguing holiday. Kidepo, by virtue of being remote is less commercial and not yet spoilt in the name of development and exploration of oils or minerals. It boasts of all important species of mammals except the rhinos.
Starting with an unusual sighting at our place of stay, the Apoka Lodge. A Waterbuck female guided her young one to drink the bluest (maybe purest) water available in the valley. The Lodge has a separate water hole constructed for the wild animals to come around for water and relax under a large Sausage tree and some big bush around. However, this was unusual, the waterbuck was not concerned about our presence across the pool.A herd of Jacobian Hartebeest. There were many young hartebeest merrily running around.It was delightful to see several elephant herds in the Kidepo NP, some with upto 20-25 members. This particular one had about 15 members with four young calves. It is an out-worldly experience to sit still and observe these gentle giants.One of the youngest members assessing the air for any signs of danger (I guess). The young elephants are a pleasure to watch, not only because they are cute, but also because they represent the hope for a healthier wildlife in the future. One of the highlights was to find this lone lioness, called Vicky, with a hartebeest kill. The drag marks in the grass and soil nearby told a story, how the lioness must have hunted its prey in the plains and then dragged it to the base of a rocky outcrop. One can only imagine the scene and marvel at its strength. It did not eat for the entire day, but spent all its energy to hide it in a cave. My reading is that it had a litter of young cubs, hidden in some rock den nearby, because at dusk, she left the kill and faded into the rocks and thicket. The only reason for a lioness to leave her kill would be to be with her cubs.On the second day (morning), we found Vicky had eaten a bellyful and continued its effort to drag the kill out of plain sight and cover the blood trail with soil and dry leaves / twigs. All this to ensure food supply for self and in turn for her young.A male Oribi. As curious as I was, it kept looking towards us and stayed its ground. Lucky for me to get this eye contact with such a lovely being. It is a treat to see oribis graze alongside Hartebeests / Ugandan Kobes or Giraffes. Sometimes, one can find them resting on the ground, almost invisible as they blend into the surroundings. African Cape Buffaloes. The one in front had been bull fighting with an Acacia tree to show off its might (as per the common human understanding). Buffaloes are definitely more feared in Africa than lions. They are tenacious and very territorial.A Rothschild Giraffe heading somewhere – guess, the animals know what they are doing and I have no capacity to judge.A family of ground dwelling Patas monkeys. They are known to be quite swift and light footed as they forage and spend most of their time on the ground. Isn’t it amazing that every being has some or the other special skill to ensure its survival.A juvenile Martial Eagle scans the ground for potential prey. One of the most powerful and aggressive raptors around.One of the two male Cheetahs found relaxing under a sausage tree. Relaxing, but ever watchful for an opportunity. Cheetahs are pure elegance in whatever they do. An Abyssinian Roller adding colour to the landscape.
Kidepo story would be incomplete without the landscape and the Apoka Lodge. Here are some snaps clicked with a mobile phone.
Zebras moving about the vast open plains in the Kidepo Valley. Jagged peaks in the backdrop make a semi-circular boundary and give a feel of isolation of the National Park from rest of the world.The sunrises and sunsets are splendid – as anywhere in Africa.Savannah grass up close – the height of the grass can be deceptive at times. It can easily hide the biggest predators like male lions or cheetahs.The Lounge / Dining Area in Apoka Lodge – one of the most comfortable stays and experience with a very warm and dedicated staff.
Worth mentioning that Kidepo is the only national park / reserve in Uganda which boasts of having all the big four (no rhinos) and many other mammal species and some endemic birds. It is definitely most scenic of all parks / reserves in Uganda. The remoteness adds to the charm. I hope we retain some such places – forever. The poem ‘Wilderness’ by Ian McCallum says it all…
Have we forgotten that wilderness is not a place, but a pattern of soul where every tree, every bird and beast is a soul maker?
Have we forgotten that wilderness is not a place but a moving feast of stars, footprints, scales and beginnings?
Since when did we become afraid of the night and that only the bright stars count? or that our moon is not a moon unless it is full?
By whose command were the animals through groping fingers, one for each hand, reduced to the big and little five?
Have we forgotten that every creature is within us carried by tides of earthly blood and that we named them?
Have we forgotten that wilderness is not a place, but a season and that we are in its final hour?
I have no doubts that the wild matters ! What say you ?
