Birding Jo

Tag: wildlife

  • Eastern Ladakh

    Eastern Ladakh

    “Travelling to remote places is a great de-tox ! ” – birdingjo

    I consider myself fortunate for multiple opportunities to have travelled and lived in this unique area called Ladakh and I always wanted to show it to my better half, Pushpinder aka Pusha.

    Incidentally, Ladakh, for un-initiated is now a Union Territory of India and has the distinction of sharing its borders with Pakistan and China. Not hard to guess that it is situated in the Northern tip of India on the Western India. Prior to 31 Oct 2019 (exactly five years from the time of writing this blog), Ladakh was part of the state of Jammu and Kashmir.

    General Area of Ladakh for a Broad Orientation

    La-dakh in local language translates to ‘land of thousand passes’. The remoteness and harsh weather conditions aptly are best described by an old ladakhi saying “The land is so inhospitable that only best of friends and worst of enemies visit us”.

    Pristine and Other-worldly

    Day 1

    Started from Chandigarh – Kullu – Manali – Atal Tunnel (to bypass Rohtang Pass) – Keylong – Jispa. Kullu and Manali were surprisingly quite quiet. When we asked, where are the tourists and crazy traffic, we learnt that there was a ‘Yellow’ Alert by the government of Himachal about the possble landslides / flashfloods keeping in view what had happened in July 2023. Luckily, we made through to Jispa without any trouble.


    It was heartening to see the set of tunnels including the state of the art 9 km long Atal Tunnel by-passing the Rohtang pass and making it possible to reach Jispa in one day from Chandigarh.

    Enterance of the Atal Tunnel and few pictures of the everchaning landscape enroute to Leh

    Day 2 & 3 – Stay at Ghemoor Khar, Jispa, District Lahol & Spiti, Himachal Pradesh.
    We were fortunate to have booked Ghemoor Khar, which happen to belong to a prominent local family with a rich history. Posting some pictures of the past which Ghemur Khar has witnessed about 100 years ago.

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    Two Centuries old Palace (now in disuse) of Royal Family of the Lahol-Spiti.

    Day 4: Jispa – Pang – More Plains – Tanglang La – Leh

    Day 3 was a long drive of about 10 – 11 hours to cover a distance of approximately 380 kms. Some may wonder, why so much time for this distance, well, this route is at many places still a dirt or gravel track, precarious and challenging hill side cuttings and goes up through at least 5 passes which are above 15000 feet. Tanglang La being the highest enroute is at 17,482 feet.

    In addition, one is bound to have multiple stops to admire and capture the beautiful and everchanging landscapes. Here are a few glimpses of the route.

    Closer to Heavens !
    Remote and Raw !
    Need thrill ?
    Pang River
    Winds to Carry the Prayers !
    As Raw as it Gets !

    Mighty Indus River Enroute to Leh near Stakhna Monastery.

    Day 5 & 6 : Stay at Leh

    Well, after going through multiple ups (17000 feet) and downs (10000 feet) on the road to Leh, it makes perfect sense to spend a day or two to acclimatise the body in this high altitude areas. Hence, we enjoyed our stay at lovely Ladakh Residency hotel, personally looked after by the gracious owner Mr. Wangchuk.

    We took strolls to the Leh market and the magnificent Shanti Stupa overlooking the entire Leh Valley.

    Exploring the Historic and Humble Leh Market
    Leh Palace in the Skyline
    Catching 40 winks in between the 400 bucks !! We, enjoyed the fresh and organic apricots !

    Day 7: Leh – Chang La – Pangong Tso

    We headed out to the most iconic lakes in the are i.e., Pangong Tso and we were to go through Chang La, which is the third highest motorable pass at 17,688 feet.

    Traditional Attires
    At Chang La !
    Beautiful Chortens Everywhere !
    Pangong Tso at an elevation of 4,225 m. It is 134 km (83 mi) long. Approximately 50% of the length of the overall lake lies within Tibet administered by China, 40% in Indian-administered Ladakh, and the remaining 10% is disputed and is a de-facto buffer zone between India and China. (Source – Wikipedia)
    Merak Village

    Day 7: Pangong Tso to Hanle

    The route goes along mostly dirt track on the banks of Pansong Tso and then via Chushul village – a site of historical importance from the 1962 war between India and China.

    It was a privilege to be able to visit the War Memorial for Rezang La in the Chushul Valley. The Memorial honours the 114 Indian soldiers of the ‘C’ Company (a.k.a. Ahir Company) of 13th Kumaon who died defending their position while inflicting 1300 casualties on the Chinese.

    After crossing Chushul, one reached Dungti area, where the Indus river takes a westerly turn and heads along the valley to Leh. It is here that the road diverges along the Hanle river valley towards the Hanle village.

    Days 8, 9 & 10: In and Around Hanle

    Hanle, which was once known only for the Indian Astronomical Observatory (IAO), is now fast gaining popularity amongst tourists for diverse reasons like sighting of specific wildlife like Pallas’s cats, black necked cranes (BNCs), wild Kiangs and as a base for travelling to Umling La – the highest motorable pass at staggering 19,024 feet with a possibility to further visit Demchok, which is the last village right at the border between India and China where, Indus river enters Indian territory.

    With so much to do, we had planned to stay at Hanle for three nights and we managed to see all that is mentioned above. Here are a few glimpses.

    Shephard with his Flock
    Indus River !
    Wild Kiyangs
    Roads to Heaven / Nowhere
    On the Borders
    Hanle Monastery
    Breeding Grounds for BNCs
    Hanle – Bustling New Tourist Hub
    In awe !!

    Now a little bit of special residents of Hanley valley.

    Pallas Cat
    Pika aka Mountain Vole
    The Marmot

    A pair of Black Necked Cranes

    Day 11 & 12: Hanle – Tso Moriri

    Tso Moriri is the second largest lake in the region and some claim it to be more beautiful than Pangong Tso. To my mind, both are exquisite and unmatched in their ever changing hues aided by the clouds. It was a great coincident to discover that one of our closest friends were also travelling on the same road to Tso Moriri. What an opportunity to meet after more than 8 years and exchange notes while skipping stones in the lakes enroute.

    Lake Tso Moriri is a brackish water lake in the Changtha.ng Plateau (literally: northern plains) at an altitude of 4,522 m (14,836 ft). It is about 26 km in length and 3 to 5 km wide. Accessibility to the lake is largely limited to summer season.
    Though, village Karzok on the northwest shore has many options (Guesthouses) to stay.

    Day 13 : Tso Moriri to Leh

    After two quiet days in Tso Moriri, we set out to return to Leh via Tso Kar. Tso Kar was once famous for the sighting of Black Necked Cranes which used to breed in good numbers around this unique lake with large salt pans and wetland patches. The number of pairs have declined in last two decades to just about one or two pairs. We did not see any while crossing this time and even the locals did not have much to say.

    We crossed many valleys and passes again and were super-stoked to see a huge heard of Blue Sheep grazing next to the road near Tanglang La.

    At Leh, we had the privilege of meeting with a lovely couple Dr. Raghu S Chundawat and Joanna Van Gruisen over lunch organised by Mr. Wangchuk.

    Dr. Chundawat is a conservation biologist whose main areas of research have been snow leopards and tigers. His pioneering ten-year research on tigers took place in the Panna Tiger Reserve and has been documented in the BBC Natural World documentary, Tigers of the Emerald Forest. His book on the tigers of Panna – The Rise and Fall of the Emerald Tigers is seminal work in tiger conservation. As on date they manage a unique lodge ‘The Sarai at Torai‘ near Panna Tiger Reserve, Madhya Pradesh.

    Listening to the interesting and inspiring anecdotes, challenges and success stories from all three stalwarts of wildlife excursions and research over snow leopards and tigers, I think was the best way to culminate of a beautiful 12 days trip in this mesmerizing land.

    Magnificent Shanti Stupa at Leh
    Nurbu from Khaltse !!

    Day 14 : Leh to Jammu

    31 July, saw us pack our bags full of great memories and bid farewell to the lovely staff and Mr. Wangchuk at Hotel Ladakh Residency and head to the airport with our local chauffeur, friend and guide for last 12 days, Mr. Nurbu. We are grateful to his commitment and ever cheerful disposition which made the trip even more enjoyable and comfortable.

    I am sure that these mountains and lovely people will beckon us for another visit, the only question is ‘when?’.

    “We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us.” – Anonymous

  • My Golden Cousins

    My Golden Cousins

    “If you go to a desert, you will hear this mysterious voice: Be wise, protect your forests!”
    ― Mehmet Murat ildan

    The Golden monkeys are special as they are found in a restricted range of area; within the Virunga mountains spread across DR Congo (Eastern part), Uganda and Rwanda. Within these mountain ranges and the rainforests found therein, the golden monkeys are choosey of their habitat of bamboo forests, making their footprint narrower. Selected pockets of original bamboo forests remain their last refuge and the pressure of human presence and encroachment is ever increasing.

    Curious yet Cautious – A good strategy to deal with humans

    As per a ranger guide from the Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda, about (only,) 3000 golden monkeys live in the wild, where wild means four national parks i.e., the Virunga National Park in DR Congo (closed as on date, due to ongoing conflicts in Eastern DRC), the Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda, Bwindi and the Mgahinga National Parks in Uganda.

    A stroke of good luck brought me closer to the Volcanoes National Park and I could see the golden monkeys in their natural habitat.

    An adult male golden monkey with a freshly dug potato. It will clean it and peel it before chewing on it. Though their primary diet remains to be fresh bamboo leaves and shoots, they do indulge in searching for food in nearby crop fields. Like in this case, a troop of golden monkeys visited a nearby field of potatoes which had been harvested and found some leftovers.

    The Volcanoes National Park (VNP) Headquarters are located in a small town called Kinigi, near Musenza (former Ruhengeri). The place is very well organised and appointed with extremely efficient staff and rangers. Facilities including the coffee is outstanding.

    They offer three main activities: the Gorilla trek, Golden Monkey trek and a trek to mount Bisoke (mount Bisoke has a crater lake at the top). Golden monkeys trip costs USD 100/- per person (and a RT-PCR Covid test to be taken before hand). For golden monkeys, it was easy to get the permit directly at the VNP HQ, however, for gorillas, one should book beforehand as the number of permits is limited which sell off pretty quickly.

    For a better orientation, see the map of the region with insets providing a glimpse of the important points

    Golden monkey trek commences through a village about 4 km from the VNP HQ and then enters into a bamboo forest. Since, I visited during the rainy season, the forest floor was wet and full of mud slush. Protecting one’s shoes is a futile exercise and a waste of time. Many lodges in the area offer an after trek clean up of shoes (a service included in your stay). Weather wise, it gets pretty cold and chilly even during the day, especially when it rains. For the trek, a rain jacket is a must along with adequate rain covers for your camera gear / phones / passports etc, because one could end up walking for an hour in the rain without any shelter. Remember, we are in the ‘rain-forest’.

    The vegetation seen here is indicative of the rich rainfall the region receives. Of course, this is the natural habitat of the beautiful Golden Monkey.

    Golden monkeys live in large troops, primarily managed by females, who remain in a general area of their choosing, owing to the availability of food. Males on the other hand roam about in a wider range and join the troop twice a year during mating season. The gestation period for a baby to be born is five months. These golden cousins of ours live upto 20 to 25 years.

    A young golden monkey – see the relative size of bamboo (2 inches diameter) and its tiny hands. This was the smallest of all babies I saw.

    These unique primates are creatures of habit, where they normally adhere to the same area and spots in the bamboo clumps for sleeping. This makes the golden monkeys territorial animals, especially the females. Hence, easy to find and in a more comfortable trek compared to trek for gorillas.

    Another Curious Young One with its Mom
    A baby – checking me out !!
    A male passed me by – absolutely confident !
    The monkeys left their usual habitat behind and came into the open agricultural land of the adjacent village. It is an easy meal to find some potatoes in already harvested field.

    An interesting fact, which highlights the significance of Golden Monkeys – you can also find them on the reverse side of Rwanda 1000 Francs bill.

    An interesting fact, which highlights the significance of Golden Monkeys –
    you can also find them on the Rwanda 1000 Francs bill.
    Mount Sabyinyo (3645 m high) – one of the five volcanic nounts found in the Virunga Massif. The views in Kinigi are breathtaking and everchanging
    A young male sitting pretty on his couch !!

    Small, characteristic and beautiful, the golden monkeys are surely, one of the most adorable primates that I have come across. Each individual seem to be comfortable in its skin and yet they also adhere to group dynamics. On one occasion, I heard a big call from the lead female and the entire group of about 40-50 monkeys, just left the open field and melted into the bamboo forest – maybe the leader had sensed some danger and warned the entire group to move back to the forest cover.

    Will I go again to see these lesser cousins (compared to the Gorillas) – yes, of-course, any day. A dwindling habitat and ever increasing human pressures have already debilitated the population of these wonderful primates. I hope that we do a better job of conserving these old world creatures in keeping them safe and thriving in the wild.

    “When you realise the value of all life, you dwell less on what is past and concentrate on the preservation of the future.” – Diane Fossey.

  • Lions

    Lions

    There is no Wi-Fi in the forest, but you will find a better connection. – Anon

    Lions need no introduction. We all admire them, atleast most of us do. Observing them in their natural habitat can transcend into timelessness. You snap back into reality only when, either your camera battery or memory card runs out.

    Compiled below are some shots which capture different times, moods and actions of these magnificent big cats.

    What is more impressive – the stare or the Hair ?
    I got more flies than you !
    The mom who survived !
    In synch !
    Caught in the act !
    Oh ! It is better to leave this guy alone !
    Danger lurks behind every blade of grass in the Savanna !
    As if she heard my whisper – ‘Please Turn’ !
    The morning chill – frozen breath !
    Alert at 7.00 AM !
    Casual at 7.00 AM !
    Majestic
    What goes there … !
    ‘I want that’ look.
    360 Degrees Surveillance
    Whose that ?
    The two lionesses looking in the direction of a male lion who was trying to locate them.
    … here comes the robber of the meal !
    Hunger Games !
    The male claimed the kill and pushed out two sisters, who went on to groom each other.
    He wanted to go too, but the safari agent was not sure, if he could pilot the balloon alone !
    A mom overseeing the cubs play in the sand bed down below.
    I definitely do NOT want to be on the other side of that stare !!
    In action – poised !
    The young learner !
    Focused !
    The early morning train !
    Mom, aunts and cousins !!
    The future !
    The Rebellion
    The Crime partners
    A force to reckon with
    Honey…
    … where is my ring !
    Skin in the Game

    Let me finish with brief yet befitting poem on these wonder beasts penned by William Morris:

    “The Beasts that be
    In wood and waste,
    Now sit and see,
    Nor ride nor haste.    “

  • Best of 2021

    Best of 2021

    • “God creates the beauty. My camera and I are a witness.”
      – Mark Denman

    This is a compilation of some of the best sightings from 2021. These may not be the best pictures, but serve as a record of moments spent somewhere in harmony with the nature.

    A female gorilla of Bweza Group. Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. March 2021
    Bweza, the silverback. Bwindi, March 2021
    Sandpiper, Mabamba Swamps, Entebbe.
    African Jacana aka Jesus Bird as it can walk on the water (illusion, when you can’t see the lily leaves)
    Malachite Kingfisher on a Papyrus Reed. Mabamba Swamps, Entebbe.
    A Green Mamba, Reptile Village, Entebbe.
    A Gabon Viper. Largest fangs with one of the fastest strikes more than make up for what this beauty lacks in its slow motion movement.
    One of the many lovely reed frogs found in Entebbe.
    Whistling Ducks
    Mobile Towers of Savannahs
    Cats, they say can read your soul. This one sure read mine !!
    Red Throated Bee-Eater
    Short Toed Snake Eagle
    A Martial Eagle. More than 150 meters, hence, a record shot. Happy to have seen one !!
    A Denham’s Bustard. Murchison National Park. Nile river in the background (blurred).
    Stumbling Blocks. Nile in the background.
    A Saddle Billed Stork
    The Murchison Falls on the Nile River
    The mighty Nile River
    The tuskers and their crop – the palm trees behind.
    The Shoebill
    The Hartebeest
    A rare species in Uganda – only found in Kidepo National Park. Dec 2021.
    An Oribi Male
    A Chameleon
    A Serval Cat
    A Black Weaver
    A female chimp in a thoughtful mood.
    A unique tailless bird – the Crombec
    Emerald Cuckoo
    Klass’s Cuckoo (male)
    A Crowned Hornbill (male). The female was in the nest.
    A colobus Monkey with its typical sad face.
    Black and White Casqued Hornbill (male on the left)
    De Brazza’s Monkey
    A Ducking
    Lesser Flamingoes – in a crater lake near Queen Elizabeth Park
    A Baby and a Mama Hippo. Kazinga Channel, QENP.
    A male Pin-Tailed Whydah
    A female Brown Throated Wattle Eye – Possesses a sweet song.
    African Fish Eagle
    A Plover
    A Stilt

    “On Earth, there is no heaven, but there are pieces of it.” – Jules Renard

  • Kidepo Valley National Park, Uganda

    Kidepo Valley National Park, Uganda

    “The Wilderness holds answers to the questions we have not yet learnt to ask”

    – Anonymous

    Were we saving the best national park of Uganda for the last or was it the sheer remoteness which kept dissuading us from planning a trip to Kidepo earlier ? Whatever might be the answer, I am glad we finally decided to head to the this remote gem of a place tucked in the North Eastern corner of Uganda.

    The valley surrounded by low lying peaks and vast undulating savannah plains make a picturesque setting for a quiet yet intriguing holiday. Kidepo, by virtue of being remote is less commercial and not yet spoilt in the name of development and exploration of oils or minerals. It boasts of all important species of mammals except the rhinos.

    Starting with an unusual sighting at our place of stay, the Apoka Lodge. A Waterbuck female guided her young one to drink the bluest (maybe purest) water available in the valley. The Lodge has a separate water hole constructed for the wild animals to come around for water and relax under a large Sausage tree and some big bush around. However, this was unusual, the waterbuck was not concerned about our presence across the pool.
    A herd of Jacobian Hartebeest. There were many young hartebeest merrily running around.
    It was delightful to see several elephant herds in the Kidepo NP, some with upto 20-25 members. This particular one had about 15 members with four young calves. It is an out-worldly experience to sit still and observe these gentle giants.
    One of the youngest members assessing the air for any signs of danger (I guess). The young elephants are a pleasure to watch, not only because they are cute, but also because they represent the hope for a healthier wildlife in the future.
    One of the highlights was to find this lone lioness, called Vicky, with a hartebeest kill. The drag marks in the grass and soil nearby told a story, how the lioness must have hunted its prey in the plains and then dragged it to the base of a rocky outcrop. One can only imagine the scene and marvel at its strength. It did not eat for the entire day, but spent all its energy to hide it in a cave. My reading is that it had a litter of young cubs, hidden in some rock den nearby, because at dusk, she left the kill and faded into the rocks and thicket. The only reason for a lioness to leave her kill would be to be with her cubs.
    On the second day (morning), we found Vicky had eaten a bellyful and continued its effort to drag the kill out of plain sight and cover the blood trail with soil and dry leaves / twigs. All this to ensure food supply for self and in turn for her young.
    A male Oribi. As curious as I was, it kept looking towards us and stayed its ground. Lucky for me to get this eye contact with such a lovely being. It is a treat to see oribis graze alongside Hartebeests / Ugandan Kobes or Giraffes. Sometimes, one can find them resting on the ground, almost invisible as they blend into the surroundings.
    African Cape Buffaloes. The one in front had been bull fighting with an Acacia tree to show off its might (as per the common human understanding). Buffaloes are definitely more feared in Africa than lions. They are tenacious and very territorial.
    A Rothschild Giraffe heading somewhere – guess, the animals know what they are doing and I have no capacity to judge.
    A family of ground dwelling Patas monkeys. They are known to be quite swift and light footed as they forage and spend most of their time on the ground. Isn’t it amazing that every being has some or the other special skill to ensure its survival.
    A juvenile Martial Eagle scans the ground for potential prey. One of the most powerful and aggressive raptors around.
    One of the two male Cheetahs found relaxing under a sausage tree. Relaxing, but ever watchful for an opportunity. Cheetahs are pure elegance in whatever they do.
    An Abyssinian Roller adding colour to the landscape.

    Kidepo story would be incomplete without the landscape and the Apoka Lodge. Here are some snaps clicked with a mobile phone.

    Zebras moving about the vast open plains in the Kidepo Valley. Jagged peaks in the backdrop make a semi-circular boundary and give a feel of isolation of the National Park from rest of the world.
    The sunrises and sunsets are splendid – as anywhere in Africa.
    Savannah grass up close – the height of the grass can be deceptive at times. It can easily hide the biggest predators like male lions or cheetahs.
    The Lounge / Dining Area in Apoka Lodge – one of the most comfortable stays and experience with a very warm and dedicated staff.

    Worth mentioning that Kidepo is the only national park / reserve in Uganda which boasts of having all the big four (no rhinos) and many other mammal species and some endemic birds. It is definitely most scenic of all parks / reserves in Uganda. The remoteness adds to the charm. I hope we retain some such places – forever. The poem ‘Wilderness’ by Ian McCallum says it all…

    Have we forgotten
    that wilderness is not a place,
    but a pattern of soul
    where every tree, every bird and beast
    is a soul maker?

    Have we forgotten
    that wilderness is not a place
    but a moving feast of stars,
    footprints, scales and beginnings?

    Since when
    did we become afraid of the night
    and that only the bright stars count?
    or that our moon is not a moon
    unless it is full?

    By whose command
    were the animals
    through groping fingers,
    one for each hand,
    reduced to the big and little five?

    Have we forgotten
    that every creature is within us
    carried by tides
    of earthly blood
    and that we named them?

    Have we forgotten
    that wilderness is not a place,
    but a season
    and that we are in its
    final hour?

    I have no doubts that the wild matters ! What say you ?

  • Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda

    Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda

    “The Earth does not belong to us, we belong to the Earth” – Chief Seattle

    Murchison Falls National Park lies at the northern end of the Albertine Rift Valley, where the sweeping Bunyoro escarpment tumbles into vast, palm-dotted savanna. First gazetted as a game reserve in 1926, it is Uganda’s largest and oldest conservation area, hosting 76 species of mammals and 451 birds.

    The northern section of the park contains savanna and borassus palms, acacia trees and riverine woodland. The south is dominated by woodland and forest patches.

    The mighty cascade drains the last of the river’s energy, transforming it into a broad, placid stream that flows quietly across the rift valley floor into Lake Albert. This stretch of river provides one of Uganda’s most remarkable wildlife spectacles. Regular visitors to the riverbanks include elephants, giraffes and buffaloes; while hippos, Nile crocodiles and aquatic birds are permanent residents.

    The savanna-dwelling patas monkey is only found here and in Kidepo Valley National Park.

    The Murchison Falls-where the Nile squeezes through an 8m wide gorge and plunges with a thunderous roar into the “Devil’s Cauldron”
    Lovely landscapes with these gentle giants and their other ungulate friends.
    The Giraffe on a Mission – wonder, what they think and why they do what they do?
    It is a treat to watch a tower / journey of giraffes ; I call them wild mobile towers (pun intended).
    A harem of female Ugandan Kobes
    The Alpha Male (Ugandan Kobe) and other young contenders nearby
    Jackson’s Hartebeest : also known as kongoni, Hartebeests are a large African antelope. Jackson’s Hartebeest is one of the 8 sub-species. These antelopes can weigh upto 200 Kgs. Males and females, both have the horns. It has a particularly elongated forehead and oddly shaped horns, short neck, and pointed ears. Form herds of 20 to 300 individuals. Once, found in abundance, their numbers have declined for all reasons human.
    Oribi : Male in the foreground. Horns distinguish the males from the females. It is a small antelope found in eastern, southern and western Africa. The oribi reaches nearly 50–67 centimetres (20–26 in) at the shoulder and weighs 12–22 kilograms. Typically diurnal, the oribi is active mainly during the day. Small herds of up to four members are common; males defend their group’s territory, 25–100 hectares (62–247 acres) large. Typically a grazer, occasionally engages in browsing.
    The Grey Kestrel. An African bird of prey belonging to the falcon family ‘Falconidae‘. Its shorter wings help differentiate it from very similar Sooty Falcon, whose wing tips almost reach the tail end at rest. It is a crepuscular bird, most active at dawn and dusk. It generally hunts from a high perch but occasionally hovers. It feeds mainly on insects, lizards and small mammals including bats, also hunt other birds, worms and amphibians. Prey is usually caught on the ground.
    Denham’s Bustard : A large bustard, It is a species of open ground, including agricultural land, grassland, flood-plains and burnt fynbos. It is resident, but some inland populations move to lower altitudes in winter. The common names for this species refer to the English explorer, Major Dixon Denham. Also known as Stanley bustard or Stanley’s bustard. The male is 9 to 10 kg and 100–116 cm, while the female is smaller.
    The Abyssinian ground hornbill or northern ground hornbill is an African bird, found north of the equator, and is one of two species of ground hornbill. It is the second largest species of African hornbill, only surpassed by the slightly larger Southern Ground Hornbill. Above picture shows the male with a red collar and the female with a purely blue neck.
    A Red Throated Bee Eater. What a delight to see this bee-eater. The red-throated bee-eater has a wide distribution across tropical Africa, its range extending from Senegal and Gambia in the west to Uganda, southern Sudan, and Ethiopia in the east. The red-throated bee-eater is a colonial species, nesting in groups and remaining in the nesting area all year round. The nests are tunnels, excavated before the ground dries after the rainy season, the colony having up to about fifty nests. The diet of these birds consists mostly of honey-bees and stingless bees, as well as other insects.
    The short-toed snake eagle (Circaetus gallicus), also known as the short-toed eagle, is a medium-sized bird of prey. Spread over a wide range. This is an ‘Old World’ species found throughout the Mediterranean basin, into Russia and the Middle East, and parts of Western Asia, and in the Indian Subcontinent and also further east in some Indonesian islands.
    A Common Genet. An agile, omnivorous, opportunistic animal which lives on ground as much as on the trees. It also feeds on plants and fruits occasionally. Normally solitary, except while mating and with off-springs. normally has a litter of five. Was lucky to find this one looking around leisurely along the path. Stayed around for 15 to 20 minutes.
    The eureka moment at 0630 h, we were the first ones to enter the reserve. found six to eight young lionesses resting on the track (the grass was all wet with rain). The moment they heard the vehicle, they started to move into the grass. Lucky that these two stayed long enough for me to pick up the camera.
    One of the lionesses – thinking !!
    Two more lionesses from the same group as above.
    The best ever sighting of a leopard for me. It was a treat to see this young leopardess leap out of the tall grass and onto the bark of this tree. It was fascinating to see all the motions and actions including pulling at the bark to clean the claws.
    It was the most exciting times to see this Leopardess.
    Young, primed and promising !!
    The queen of the grasslands !!
    Looks squarely into my eyes.
    The gentlest of the giants came along.
    and then I saw the most heart wrenching scene – the young one was trying to push the empty plastic bottle down its throat. The elders were oblivious or had no clue about it. I watched helplessly and my query to our guide also brought in a quiet response – there is nothing that we can do about it.
    Guess, my prayers were answered (quickly). The young one dropped the bottle and moved on.
    Another pachyderm : A young male alerted by our presence !!

    Murchison Falls national reserve was definitely a great place to visit with herds of wild animals still moving about freely. However, one can see the roads and tracks being built and cutting across the paths of these gentle creatures, who know nothing of human compulsions. I only hope the traffic remains within limits and there is enough for the man and the animals to survive together.

    Lets persevere and preserve whatever little is left of our planet !!

  • Mountain Gorillas : Meeting the King Kong

    Mountain Gorillas : Meeting the King Kong

    “The clearest way to the Universe is through the forest wilderness.“
    – John Muir (also known as “John of the Mountains” and “Father of the National Parks”)

    Till about a few years ago, I could only dream of seeing a Mountain Gorilla in the wild. I was contend watching documentaries on the Nat Geo or Animal Planet and be inspired by the likes of Sir David Attenborough. However, I have been lucky to have landed in the lands of mountain gorillas – East Africa and Uganda to be precise.

    Uganda boasts of hosting (protecting) about 50% of the worlds surviving mountain gorillas. There are multiple areas where tourists can visit these primates in their natural habitat. One of the first questions which comes to mind – is it not dangerous? Well, there is an elaborate system of ensuring the safety of these animals in the wild as well as that of the tourists. Without going into too many details, these gorillas, while still in the wild, have been habituated to human presence. Since they inhabit dense rainforests, it is an exhilarating experience overall.

    The mountain gorilla (Gorilla beringei beringei) is one of the two subspecies of the eastern gorilla (Gorilla beringei). The total population is estimated to be about 1000. A major portion of the population lives in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, and the balance live in the Virunga Forests which spread in three adjacent national parks (across three countries) i.e., Uganda’s Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park, and Virunga National Park in the Democratic Republic of Congo.

    I decided to visit the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, in the SW Uganda, which is about 425 km (by road) from Entebbe. Below are some snapshot of my meeting with the Gorillas.

    The King Kong – A silver back mountain gorilla. As the name suggests, these are the adult males, whose hair on the back turns silver (from black) at an age of about 12 years. These are generally the alpha males in the group. Growing up to 172 to 180 cm in height, these bulky primates can weigh upto 200 kgs. (heaviest was recorded to be about 265 kgs). Females are shorter and lighter. In the picture is Bweza (meaning the Handsome, in local language) – photographed in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda, 29 March 2021.
    I see you, cousin. I realised that the Gorillas were least interested in our presence – they were quite focused on their prime interest / activity of feeding. Was lucky to have Bweza glance towards me and be able to capture that moment.

    In Uganda, there are about 18 family groups of Gorillas which have been habituated – a two years process, in which Gorillas are gradually exposed to human presence in their environment. As such, gorillas are gentle by nature. Once the families are habituated, no more than 8 tourists are allowed to visit them for more than an hour.

    I think therefore I am. A young male having his quiet time. I now understand, why we consider these primates quite akin to humans.
    A young (few months old) baby riding piggy back on its mother’s back. The babies are cared for like humans. The mother moved too quickly for me to get a picture of her face in the frame.
    A perspective : notice the two small areas in the world, where mountain gorillas exist in the wild.
    The youngest member was a 2 month old baby, clinging to his mother. Don’t mind the clutter and branches – with gorillas, that’s a called a Candid Shot.
    A thinking mother and a sleeping baby – the baby’s head under mother’s chin. How they all look like one bundle of black hair.
    Yes, I agree they are quite like humans !! No more proof required. See the baby’s head and hand.
    The nose reminds me of another interesting fact – Gorillas can be identified by nose prints, which are unique to each individual
    Notice, how the mother holds the young one – exactly as we humans do.
    Another young one (about 10 months old) was moving about independently – exploring his world with gentle playfulness.
    Are we one soul ??
    I think, we are.
    One grown up male, about 6-7 years old, foraging. Quite dexterous and human like in use of his hands.

    A word about the taxonomy of mountain gorillas. It was not until 1967 that the taxonomist Colin Groves proposed that all gorillas be regarded as one species (Gorilla gorilla) with three subspecies Gorilla gorilla gorilla (western lowland gorilla), Gorilla gorilla graueri (lowland gorillas found west of the Virungas) and Gorilla gorilla beringei (mountain gorillas, including Gorilla beringei, found in the Virungas and Bwindi). In 2003, after a review, they were divided into two species (Gorilla gorilla and Gorilla beringei) by The World Conservation Union (IUCN). Hence, the mountain gorillas are gorilla beringei. They have thicker hair cover to protect them from cold and incessant rains in their habitat.

    Another member of the family. It was a very pleasant realisation that how comfortable these primates are in their natural habitat. Absolutely one with the thick undergrowth where plants bite with equal ferocity as the insects. Its their sitting room.
    Talking of rooms – did you know that Gorillas, prepare their nests every evening to spend the night in a comfortable bed made out of the leaves and branches. The alpha (silverback) decides the location. At dawn, they simply leave and move on a new trail to forage, obviously led by the alpha.
    Bweza definitely deserves the final frame. Did you know that gorillas, unlike Chimpanzees are herbivores. They are known to feed on a large variety of plants (leaves and fruits). One if the rangers told me that about 60 of those plants are found in the Bwindi Forests. Another gentle giant in the wild proves that plant based diet is never a limiting factor for muscle building.

    Now you know ‘where’ and ‘how’ to visit the mountain gorillas. The only question that remains to be answered / planned for is ‘When ?’. When are you visiting the King Kong and his family ?

    Happy thinking !!

    PS – Some important links to read up more on gorillas:-

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mountain_gorilla

    https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/reasons-trek-see-mountain-gorillas-uganda

    https://www.ugandawildlife.org/wildlife-a-conservation/conservation/wildlife-directory/mountain-gorilla

    https://en.unesco.org/courier/news-views-online/uganda-mountain-gorillas-shielded-threats

  • Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda

    Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda

    “I encourage everybody to hop onto Google and type in ‘national park’ in whatever state they live in and see the beauty that lies in their own backyard. It’s that simple.” – Jordan Fisher

    QENP was the first national park to kick start my explorations in Uganda. The Southern part of the Park includes Ishasha area, famous for the tree climbing lions. Unfortunately, I was not able to spot any, but then, wildlife trips are never goal oriented, at least not for me – you just enjoy the journey. However, on our second trip to the Park in Feb 2021, we not only saw a lioness with two cubs, but three different male lions. Its wild !!

    Compiled below are some pictures from the area. Hope you enjoy the trip too !!
    PS – Like always, click on the image, if you wish to see the full size picture.

    Ugandan Kobes (large antelops) found in good numbers.
    Do you see the heads and ears of the ones sitting in the grass ?
    The sturdy survivor – A Warthog. They are confident and dogged, given that they roam the grounds where danger lurks all around – day and night.
    Another confident fellow – A Baboon.
    Lucky to have spotted the Queen of the Jungle, the stealthiest of them all – A female Leopard.
    …… even more lucky to have her at the coffee table !! Personally, I don’t think it can get any better with leopards.
    Like all celebrities short on time….. our queen soon melted back into her environs.
    Buffaloes – one of the most alert and aggressive herbivores on the land. They guard their clan well.
    A curious case of Benjamin – the Vervet Monkey. Known for their turquoise-blue scrotum and gutsy snatching of food from foreign humans (anyone other than the African people) in some lunch spots.
    The Painted Warrior : A Topi Antelope. One of the most robust and solid looking antelopes in East Africa.
    A glimpse of the diverse landscape within the Park. Hope you do not miss the Elephant.
    An afternoon drink for everyone.
    While mostly shy, some of these giants simply do not care about humans or their toys.
    How would you feel sitting in that car ??
    Damn ! Where is the traffic Police? Somebody, tell this guy that there is a National Park
    and it is on the West of this Highway !
    Let me take you to the Kazinga Channel : A 48 km long (about 100 to 500 m wide) water channel which connects Lake Albert and Lake Edward within the QENP. This is a view from the lodge I stayed in.
    A boat ride on this channel is amazing.….
    …..you are greeted by hundreds of curious eyes, huffs and puffs
    A Hippo Trail – Did you know that the hippos walk underwater, point to point. They just align themselves, go down to the floor and walk for a few minutes, come up to breathe and align again….. and so on.
    Sometimes you come face to face with the alpha – who is instinctively sizing up the boat !!
    Believe it or not, the locals say that fishermen bear the brunt of their angst – hippos, who see the small boat as a trespasser, easily overturn it and cause severe / fatal injuries to the occupants.
    Folklore says that the hippos kill more number of humans than any other animal in Africa.
    Found this gentle giant breaking and consuming mud (GEOPHAGIA) on the banks of Kazinga Channel – it is seeking certain minerals / salts found in this soil. Geophagia is common among many animals including humans.
    Hippos indulging in Geophagia.
    A group of Water Bucks – for Minerals and Water.
    Can you see its face – partially visible. The Nile Monitor Lizard moved too fast for a clear shot. A treat to see such a large lizard glide down the tree into the thicket below.
    Second time lucky – got a better shot, another spot.
    Sankara, the acclaimed largest male lion in Uganda. Enjoying the light drizzle. Shot at approximately 80-90 m from the track
    Two male brothers emerged out of this bush and surprised us. They were quite playful and strolled together in the light rain. We could spend about 30 minutes with them.
    Lesser Flamingoes in a crater lake on the fringes of QENP. The Guide said that these birds move between Lake Nakuru in Kenya and these crater lakes in Uganda.
    An African Fish Eagle

    A few glimpses of the journey itself…

    Dreamland….
    Tree size Cacti …
    My perch above the Kazinga Channel
    Hippo Prints Outside my Room
    Now, I have a reference !!
    Another of my stops in Ishasha Sector
    Interesting to see the cargo flow between the countries in East Africa. This big Truck, is heading to Congo, coming from Mombasa Port (Kenya). A long and tough journey, on a mix of super highways and some dirt tracks like seen here.

    Thank you for stopping by.
    Happy journeys !!