A continuing portrait of the Maasai Mara through wildlife encounters, changing light and repeated journeys across the savannah.
Early encounters
“Only when the last of the animal horns, tusks, skin and bones have been sold, will mankind realize that money can never buy back our wildlife” – Paul Oxton
The Masai Mara is considered the Mecca of Wildlife enthusiasts for two good reasons : almost guaranteed meeting with plenty of game and the great migrations.
Chances are that you will land up at Nairobi and then drive to the Mara. We did the same with a diversion to Lake Nakuru and it was well worth it.
Within three hours we had see a leopard, a rhino family, a lioness with cubs and Rothschild’s giraffes (found in limited areas in Kenya and Uganda). The bar had been set and we were excited about next four days in the Mara.
Mummy, that was yummy !! A Lioness with three cubs. Lake Nakuru, Kenya
Daddy Rhino in lead to the water hole. Lake Nakuru, Kenya
The Horn of Africa. A Black Rhino. Lake Nakuru, Kenya
Moving ahead to the main attraction i.e., the Mara. Well, here are some of the selected few snapshots.
Sitting pretty – one of the four lionesses who were lazily soaking up the warmth from the Sun and the rocks. There was a male lion with a kill about 300 meters away.
What a Pride !! And a glimpse of the habitat.
This mama elephant and the calf were part of a herd. While looking at us she produced deep rumbling sounds which was resonated by all herd members. These sounds were unique, unlike ever seen / heard on any of the wildlife TV channels / documentary.A super mom, this lioness was raising three little cubs.Here, she is returning back to them after stalking some wildebeest… and boy, were those cubs enthralled to see her ?Meeting these cute bundles of pure joy was the highlight of our entire trip. We never realised how we had spent about 4 hours at one spot with them.
We found this lioness (alone) near a a wildebeest kill at 7.30 AM. About 10 The Zebra had lined up and were clearly agitated, but did nothing. We moved on. Guess what, the lioness was still keeping guard when we returned at 5.00 PM.
Cheetahs were a pleasure to meet – the most elegant of all three big cats found in Savannahs.We may naturally abhor them, but they are as important a part of the ecosystem as any other. Normally hyenas are found in groups, sometimes they spread out. Found this one scouting the area on its own.
No jungle story can be complete without the King. I am sure, like me, you too must have this doubt – Why is the lion considered the King ? Well, you will know – when you see one. Locals also refer to them as ‘Kala Singha’.
… and the scars tell you that he has earned the title well !!
If you have enjoyed this short glimpse into the magical land of Masai people, imagine the thrill of visiting it first hand. Keep your dreams alive !!
Happy landings !!
Returning to the Mara
“If you can’t be in awe of mother nature, there’s something wrong with you” – Alex Trebek
End of July 2023, as they say, some stars aligned and we found ourselves in Maasai Mara. As any Mara fan will tell you, it is the beginning of peak season as the great migration brings thousands of wildebeest and zebras across the Mara river from Tanzania into Kenya.
A large herd of wildebeest and zebras crossed over – luckily, without any casualties as no predator was present.
The migration of wildebeests and zebras through Maasai Mara are part of a larger migration cycle which repeats itself over the vast expanse of the Serengeti eco-system. Three maps below depict the same in a simple and clear manner. Took the picture of these maps at the Safarilink Terminal, Wilson Airport, Nairobi.
First Impressions of Maasai Mara landscape – last week of July. It is dry and green lines show where the streams are. Same landscape turns into a green carpet after few days of consistent rainfall.
We had chosen to stay at Lorian Safari Camp, which is located inside the National Reserve – a beautiful location near the Ol Kiombo airstrip and on the banks of Olare Orok stream. The camp has a resident bloat of hippos and frequent wild visitors including elephants, hyenas and leopards. One could also hear the roars of Topi pride lions intermittently.
The excellent team at Lorian Safari Camp!
I am absolutely convinced that a picture is worth thousand words and accordingly, sharing some pictures below from the trip to Mara.
The ground crew stands by to welcome you at Ol Kiombo Airstrip.This is why Mara draws the biggest herds of tourists round the year – there is never a dull day in Mara. The Topi pride (24 lions including subadults) had stalked and brought down a buffalo early morning.There were at least 50 to 60 vehicles around the scene.Peaceful crossing after the bigger bulk of the herd had crossed over Morning tête-à-tête. A mating pair on the banks of Mara River . The mating lions move out of the pride and stay in a private space for about a week.Drama at sunrise : A herd of elephants simply walks through the Rongai Pride and shakes them out of slumber !!The male became active a little later – the elephants had simply ignored him and moved on !!‘David and Goliath’ – a long story saved to be told in person !!Stripes !!Everyone has a view point !Olonyok and Winda of the once famous ‘Tano Bora’ coalition !!A lucky break to catch this fleeting Serval Cat early morning, while rushing to see Topi PrideEarly Morning Magic of Golden Light – Topi Pride !They just appeared from the shadow of the river bank after a hearty drink. A bloody murder, in broad daylight – I was wondering, maybe someday the Zebras will revolt !!The coolest of all (cats). A leopardess, just got down from the tree and was on the move – only she knew, where to !Mr. Secretary !!A new-born calf (just 30 minutes old) was being given a generous scrub by the mother, who was very alert and aware of her surroundings !!Gangs of the Grassland !! Lionesses and sub-adults of Mara Pride stalking a herd of buffaloes.This King went a bit too far this time. He had not only killed a Hyena, but also fed on it. Normally, lions kill the Hyena and leave the dead body. Rarely, are they seen feeding on a hyena kill.The most formidable and aggressive of them all !!… but for lions, everything that moves in the savannahs is food ! Topi pride brought down a buffaloBrothers Bonding !!A demonstration on how to peel an acacia !!A lone female in the vicinity !Pups of Spotted Hyena – understanding the world outside their den, while the mother keeps an eye on them.A Lilac Breasted RollerGood Morning Topi Pride !!The pull of Mara !! Mara’s mesmerizing landscapes.With Our Outstanding Guide and Host Benson Kirrokor Our Banda – for 5 nights at Lorian Safari Camp !Lorian’s Lounge & Dining Area.
Are we going back to Mara – 100 % percent. There is no doubt in my mind about the experience and pleasure of visiting Mara. It is simply un-matched.
Tug on anything in nature and you will find it connected to everything else
Dear O’Sully,
Thank you for the encouragement – it is the fuel driving this passion !
Pictures and stories – all yours.
Best,
JS
Stephen O’Sullivan
The captions and the story that you weave through them are so entertaining Jo. I read them to my kids as you know! The Mara is certainly on my bucket list thanks to you.
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